Two special Catalan dishes

Thanks to local culture and my generous hosts, I had two more amazing, delicious meals. Friday night it was Habas a la Catalana or Catalan-Style Broad Beans. The flavor from the onions, garlic, bay leaves and a particular sausage were so good!!! I had forgotten how delicious fresh broad beans are - so tender they melted in my mouth!

Habas a la Cataluna

Saturday's afternoon meal was a “simple” dish of fire-roasted spring onions (calçots, pronounced CALsots) but that doesn’t begin to describe this springtime Catalan ritual (la calçotada). My first clue of something different were the sheets of newspaper spread like placemats around the big table. There was a fire going in the fireplace but I couldn’t tell what would emerge until the first course of appetizers and drinking was over and the main course was presented. Out came the piles of fire-blackened onions and my challenge to figure out how to eat them! It’s a two-handed operation which, if done properly, leaves the charred onion skins in a pile on the newspaper and the edible portion hanging in the other hand. Holding an onion by its top, the outer burnt skin is slipped off by pulling down and the white core is eaten after dipping in a delicious red sauce (salsa romesco). Lets just say none of this involves any utensils! Also served were fire roasted sausages and artichokes. What a sight, three generations of a family talking, laughing and eating messy, delicious and healthy food with their fingers!

Calçots (fire-roasted spring onions)

La calçotada (the event)

Here's a good description of the food and the event! http://www.culinarybackstreets.com/barcelona/2013/calcots/ 

The artichokes went fast! 

Showing that the salsa romesco is all gone!

Maria's birthday

I thought I might have to fend for myself today because Pep had a cold so I was thinking of maybe taking a side trip to a nearby town, but...

After a late breakfast I learned that today was Pep’s mom’s, Maria's, birthday and there was a dessert making project to help with. Dolors plopped thick chocolate blobs on parchment paper while Pep and I placed one almond, one hazelnut, two pine nuts, and two raisins on each blob. 

Dolors and Pep making a special dessert

Pep and I went out and cut a trailer load of firewood and when we got back, the extended family were at the house for the celebration. At around 2:30, ten of us were sitting at a big table with at least a dozen different finger foods, champagne and wine. Other dishes were a molded potato salad with tuna, stuffed hard boiled eggs, and focaccia with onions. The next course I can remember was a big platter of baked fresh anchovies covered with herbs… All delicious!

Ready to start celebrating Maria's birthday

Each course took the better part of an hour and all of this was going on in Catalan. I’m sitting there feeling happy and safe like a fly on the wall enjoying it like the family dog, when suddenly, Pep asks me to sing happy birthday to his mother! Mercè was there to confirm in English what I thought I had heard from Pep. Imagine the shock… combined with the honour! I was right across the table from Maria and managed to more or less belt it out in english without choking or forgetting the words. I’m sure the beer, red wine and champagne helped! Everyone seemed to be delighted and applauded!

Just when you think you’re stuffed… there’s more! Out comes a big cake, cream puffs, the hand made chocolates, and more  champagne!

Maria with her birthday cake

Finally, there was strong coffee!

During this "slow food" celebration, watching and listening to the continuous, energetic chatter in a language I couldn’t understand was fascinating! Imagine being surrounded by lovely family of friendly strangers, all getting drunk and jabbering continuously! It was a great experience but also a shame to miss the content!  

Things started breaking up around 5:30 and we were up from the table at 6:00. Yes, three and a half hours later!

Nationalism

Living with a Catalonian (Catalunyan) family in a small town has been fascinating. Not only am I far from home, but I also feel like I’m in two foreign countries at once. Spain yes, but everyone around here would say I’m in Catalunya! My hosts speak Catalan most of the time and the TV I’ve seen is mostly either in Catalan with Spanish subtitles or Spanish with Catalan subtitles.

According to Wikipedia, Catalonia is an “autonomous community” of Spain. This should sound familiar to my friends at home who remember that the Government of Canada recognized Quebec as a nation within Canada. Such token recognition will never satisfy serious separatists though and there is going to be an independence referendum here this fall. It’s not clear what will happen if there is a “yes” vote. Spain and the EU say they would not recognize a unilateral vote for independence. This is a serious issue for the people here but from my point of view, the strong cultural and national identity behind it creates a rich experience for a visitor!

Catalunyan coat of arms set in Pep and Dolors' garden wall

Barcelona Photography Tour

Last Friday I made a side trip to Barcelona for a guided photography tour. I met Laurie Cohen at Plaza Catalunya and we wandered for more than six hours through locations ranging from major tourist spots to quiet, narrow streets in the gothic quarter. It was an unusual and exciting experience for this keen amateur, being both a rare opportunity for urban photography and my first full day in Barcelona! I can see why Laurie has had excellent reviews in Trip Advisor. He knows where the interesting spots are and he was able to show me something I didn't know how to do with my own camera!

John Paul Cabradilla

Las Paredes

Bourne District

Magic Fountain of Montjuïc

Feast of San Guiseppe

This was a special day for my host family because it’s the name day of two family members, thus calling for a big meal with lots of people. At Mirmanda, the family farm, there was a lot of carrying, cooking, and yard work (trimming olive trees) before 13 people settled down at the big table for a couple hours of eating and socializing. We started with about eight different finger foods including bagged chips, smoked salmon, olives, a pesto of bacalà (cod), anchovies, cheese, etc. When that was cleaned up the paella, prepared outside over a fire in a huge skillet by Xavi (SHA vee), was brought in and served with a few big salads. I felt confident enough to insinuate myself into a picture taking role and was delighted to be accommodated. 

There was a wide variety of alcoholic beverages available throughout. I was seated between two delightful people with whom I enjoyed trying to communicate! One made a big fuss about the smoked salmon, and Canada. The other had a booming voice and repeatedly did little things to make me feel welcome.

The paella was incredible in both quantity and quality! I assume Xavi might be the owner and/or head chef at his restaurant! I had seconds but then the desserts came out and I HAD to have a piece of the Catalunya Independence cake, dusted with powdered sugar with a little paper cutout of something that looked like part of a coat-of-arms and a couple of flags, thus leaving an image on top of the cake!

Xavi serving his paella

Twelve members of my host's family starting on the main course

Hike and pizza in a wood-fired oven

Yesterday, March 16th was so full I don't know what to leave out.

My host, Pep and I met in the kitchen at 7 AM, swallowed strong coffee and piece of fruit, and drove a few km to a trailhead for a walk up the mountain immediately to the south. Like many hikes in Europe the destination was driveable but there are walking and mountain bike trails. We walked through an attractive mixed forest with some shrubs and wildflowers in bloom. A few hours later we were at a pretty little mountain refuge where we had a meal of some typical Catalan food. I kept the wine consumption low because I’m out of shape for this European style of hiking. I’m confident that the food (olives, onions, salt cured fish, roasted vegetables, beans, bread) was delicious but I would have wolfed down anything after that 3 hour uphill hike. The weather was gorgeous and I got to see the other half of the trail views on the return trip. 

Pep in the little village of Rojals (980 m) where we had our late morning Catalan meal

After a break back at the house, Pep and Dolors and I had meal #2 at 2 pm outside on a picnic table. They said it was their first time of this year for them. It was potato chips, bread, a roasted chicken from the store, and a bottle of Catalan sparkling wine. 

Me, Pep and his wife Dolors eating in the afternoon outside at the guest cabin 

In late afternoon, we made a trip to the woods to cut firewood but I didn't take any photos. It was some of the hardest work you could imagine on a holiday, but heck, I'm a temporary member of the family! 

In the evening at the family farm a few km away, the outdoor oven was fired up and we baked three pizzas. There was a great deal of fuss made over their guest's cooking, even by the daughter and son-in-law who run what sounds like a gourmet, local food restaurant! I'm glad I brought my pocket camera. 

What a long day with such kind hosts!